My first Volvo I bought was a 2001 s60 2.4t and I absolutely loved the car. Since then I wanted a Volvo with a little more power and AWD. That’s when I decided to get my 2005 Volvo S60R with the manual transmission. The car currently has 97,000 miles on it. I couldn’t be happier with the car. I love everything about it, most of all its uniqueness. Of course after owning the car for a little while I wanted to start building it.
Proper wastegate adjustment can have a considerable impact on how the Volvo turbocharger control system both develops power and maintains boost pressure across the rev range. A wastegate setting that is too low/loose can prevent full boost target from being reached and create lethargic power development. Consequently a wastegate setting that is too high/tight can cause the boost to over shoot target and, in some cases, can cause the ECU to initiate limp mode. So proper wastegate adjustment is critical for best performance and power.
We're on part 2 of the forged engine build and things are moving along well! This is the last part of assembly before final tuning and testing. With the engine going together we'll also be adding a Quaife limited slip differential to our M56, so let's get going!
This months feature build will be taking place over the next 3 months as our sights are set a bit higher on this 1998 S70 Auto. We'll start with full disassembly of the engine and trans and rebuild from the ground up with forged pistons, forged rods, 20T turbo (to start) and while we're there go ahead and convert from an open differential automatic transmission to a proper limited slip manual transmission!
The 2000 Volvo V70R is a great chassis to start a build from since it is already factory equipped with the larger TD04HL 19T turbo and a host of interior upgrades. However there is a down side... They were only available in automatic transmission here in the US. Additionally the M58 AWD transmission that is needed to properly convert the V70R into a manual transmission is somewhat hard to find and can be costly to acquire. As if that wasn’t enough, the engine management system in that chassis is of the vastly more complex ME7 version which further complicates converting from automatic transmission to manual transmission. Fortunately with some hard work and diligence in the code we were able to provide a seamless upgrade for the owner of this R model. Here’s how we did it.
For those looking for some ideas on how and where to mount their TCV, an ARD customer mentioned this helpful tip on how they mounted theirs!
Dear ARD Tuning,
I mounted the TCV I purchased provided by You on the side motor mount that the top motor mount attaches to, right behind the bracket that holds the hose to the brake booster. The side engine mount can be removed by 3 bolts holding it to the motor for easier access for drilling the 2 holes required for mounting it. The hose leading from the snabb intake grommet to the TCV is literally 3 inches long & the other hoses are less than 9-10 inches. I just thought I'd share this so You can recommend a location to your customers that need a bracket, anyways I want to thank You for Your time & Quality Performance Parts.
Thanks to you sir for your helpful suggestion, and ARD Tuning sticker pack is on it's way to you!
Here at ARD Tuning one of the most enjoyable aspects of our work is when we are asked to participate in interesting new projects. We were quite fortunate to be commissioned by Ron Edwards of CKA motorsports to co-develop a stage 3 package for his newly acquired 2.5l automatic LPT (Low pressure turbo) 2007 XC70. Our goal was very clear from the get-go; produce a significant increase in horsepower and torque across the power band without sacrificing engine longevity and daily driving comfort.
While a fuel pump might seem like an upgrade only for fully built cars with huge turbos, even those of us pushing the limits of stock frame turbos may have something to gain. Fuel pumps, like all fluid pumps, have a maximum flow capacity and an optimal efficiency window. Ideally you want to choose a fuel pump that never has to operate outside of its efficiency range on your particular setup. The stock fuel pump on most FWD Volvos will support an absolute maximum of somewhere around 300 bhp. This means that even a tuned car with a stock turbo may be experiencing the effects of a fuel pump operating outside of its optimal efficiency window.
This weeks Fast Friday will be a bit on the short side since we’re elbow deep in two car builds at the moment and will have some great pics/vids and data for you next week on the non turbo project. With that said I thought we’d cover the topic of how tuners tune cars, the short version
Two weeks ago today we started working with RZ Design on the
R32 turbo kit they offer for 2004-2007 R models. With RZ doing the hard work of
the install in the first week it left the remainder of the next week for us to
complete the tuning. The turbo on this
kit is capable of over 500bhp so reining that in to keep the engine safe was
priority number one! The engine in stock form is capable of handling approx.
420 bhp before issues start to arise; typically splitting cylinder liners if
there is any detonation. To help keep that at bay we used an AEM progressive
water/methanol injection system to act as a safety net since this particular
vehicle is driven in high ambient temps on the track quite regularly. While
this is likely overkill for most drivers using this kit we thought it wise to
give the engine every advantage given its rather rough operating conditions!