Forged Engine Build Part 2

Posted by lucky on 5/24/2014 to ARD Blog Articles
Now that we've got our bottom end assembled as far as crankshaft and block we're moving on to pistons, connecting rods, cylinder head, and all the ancillary parts.

To begin we check the ring end gap on our Wiseco rings and adjust as necessary per their spec. Be sure to have a proper ring gap tool, a regular old file is not sufficient for this adjustment. Proper ring end gap ensures combustion chamber sealing which translates to maximum power with minimal blow by and oil consumption.
Ring end gap checking ARD Tuning Volvo B5234T

On go the rings. I like to install rings with some light spray assembly to keep them moving freely during the free hand rotation as we start installing pistons in each cylinder.
Ring installation into Wiseco pistons ARD Tuning Volvo B5234T

Get your rods ready for install into your piston by heating the small end to help it expand and fit easily over the piston pin. 
Forged rods into our Wiseco pistons ARD Tuning Volvo B5234T

Once you've got your rods installed and the rings compressed it's time for install! Plenty of assembly lube is the key, especially if the engine is going to sit for any period before it gets installed and started up.


Love the new digital Snap On torque wrench, built in gyro calculates angle torque for you!

I use a rod bolt stretch measurement gauge to confirm the ARP 2000 bolts reach the proper torque to yield point. You can go by torque value alone but it's highly recommended to measure bolt stretch to confirm you've got it right. 

With the bottom end assembled we install the oil pickup tube, oil pan and then flip the motor over and set the cylinder head on. We'll add our ARD Tuning lightweight crank pulley while to reduce mass in the rotating assembly.

Non turbo cams go in with the factory cam setup tool, and our ARD Tuning Cam timing tool gets the cam gears degreed in properly!


Now for the custom powder coated black top engine cover. Factory hold down tools do a good job of bringing the cam cover down even and without marring up the finish.

Cam Seals front and rear, cam gears, timing belt, idlers, and tensioner all go on next. Be sure to rotate the engine around by hand one full revolution to ensure valve/piston clearance and proper amount of rotational resistance is felt once you've got it all together.

Coming together with accessory drive parts along with new plugs, cap, rotor, and wires.

Green injectors will be used to break the motor in but 650cc are likely necessary once we start tuning and really putting the power down. Those injectors really stand out against our black powder coated top engine cover, fuel rail, and intake manifold!

We installed an R exhaust manifold and 20T billet turbo with 11 blade turbine wheel for a solid midrange monster. This is after all a street car so midrange spool and power delivery is important

To put the power down we'll install a limited slip differential from Quaife for our M56.

Separate the trans case and pull out the three gear sets.

Our new Quaife gets some new side bearings, don't even bother trying to remove the original side bearings from the original differential. You'll typically damage them and may not notice it until a few hundred miles down the road!

Remove the bolts from the old differential and remove the ring gear from it, now onto the new LSD differential and tighten to spec!

Back together!

New internal slave cylinder and it's time for engine and trans assembly!

Stay tuned as we put the engine and transmission together shortly and head out for some break in miles and tuning!
 

 ARD Blog Articles

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 Forged Engine Build Part 2
 Forged Engine build Part 1
 2000 Volvo V70R AWD Manual Swap!

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